Upper Mustang Trek - The Forbidden Kingdom 16 Days

The wakeup call is set up early today since all Tourist Bus leaves in the early hour morning around 7:30 am. Leaving the capital city through the slender highway we drive to Pokhara. As we leave the capital city, our bus follows the winding road over the valley rim and descends onto the valley where the Trisuli River follows The journey is slow and steady as the road winds through villages passing terraces fields and we soon catch glimpses of the high eye-catching mountain ranges of Ganesh, Manasula, and Annapurna. Normally, we arrive Pokhara by mid-afternoon so you have time to explore this pretty lake city. You can even hire a boat to visit the Temple-Island dedicated to Goddess Barahi in the middle of the lake and get some great photos with an awesome background.

We wake early to catch a flight to Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang. This 20 minutes’ flight in a small Twin-Otter plane that cruises through the world's deepest Kali Gandaki gorge with the glorious view of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri is exceptional. We get to the windy valley of Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang. The sound of jingling horse and pony bells as the Mustang people pass by with their loads becomes an omnipresent aspect of the trek from now on. After sorting out gear, we trek up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni. The wide trail along a sandy, ammonites (pre-historic rock) filled riverbed provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche, and Nilgiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif.

Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains. This ancient and partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of wheat and barley, and its imposing and newly-restored brick-colored Gompa. At the police check post at the north end of the village, we will complete our paperwork before entering Upper Mustang, the long-forbidden region of Nepal

Trek right up the river valley, but the best solution is to use a combination of the high trail and the seasonal riverbank pathways. The trail then widens significantly revealing an endless stretch of sand, however, the path is kept interesting by the passing of several mule trains bearing goods from Mustang and probably Tibet as well. On the west bank of the river, you can see Gompa Kang and some caves. Unlike most monasteries in Upper Mustang, Gompa Kang is of the Nyingmapa sect.

We stop for lunch at the village of Tangbe, which is situated alongside the east bank trail above the river, at an elevation of 9,600ft. Here are the first black, white, and red Chortens that typify Upper Mustang. The little town is a labyrinth of narrow alleys among whitewashed houses, fields of buckwheat barley, wheat, and apple orchards. Nilgiri Peak continues to dominate the southern skyline. Chussang village is only about 1 – 2hrs walk beyond Tangbe at the confluence of the Narshang Khola and the Kali Gandaki. There are three separate parts to this village and some broken castle walls on the surrounding cliffs. Across the river from Chussang are some spectacular red organ-pipe eroded cliffs above the mouth of some inaccessible caves. The five villages of this area, Chele, Gyakar, Chussang, Tangbe, and Tetang are a culturally unified group of people, closely related to the Manangis, rather than the true Lobas.

Continuing north either wading the river or climbing on the trail we reach a huge red chunk of mound that has fallen from the cliffs above forming a tunnel through which the river flows. We cross a steel bridge that sits in front of the tunnel and north of here the Kali Gandaki becomes impassable on foot, although locals sometimes travel this route on horseback, through a steep, narrow canyon. There are many caves here high on the fluted red cliffs above. The trek now leaves the valley and climbs steeply up a rocky gully to the village of Chele. Walk to Chele is 45 minutes. 

There is a distinct change here, not only in topography, but there is a world of difference also in the culture, lifestyle, and people. Settlements are more scattered, smaller, and more basic. The people of Lo or Mustang do practice agriculture, but because of the lack of rain and fertile soil, cultivation is in sheltered plots of land making the landscape a pattern of brown, with scattered patterns of shaded greens. Most of the houses now have sheep horns above their doorways and ghost traps. Watch out also for the ferocious Tibetan mastiffs that many of the Tibetan-like people keep. 

Climbing from Chele up a steep spur we come to a cairn at 10,270ft. Here there is a view of the village of Gyagar across the huge canyon. The climb continues along the side of a spectacular steep canyon to a pass at 11,500ft. From here it traverses on a pleasant trail to Samar situated in a grove of poplar trees. This is a major stopping place for horse and mule caravans. Camp overnight. We climb above Samar to a ridge and then descend into a large gorge past a Chorten painted in red, black, yellow, and white and then the trail goes into another valley filled with juniper trees. We then cross the stream and climb to a ridge at 12,500ft. We cross another pass, follow a ridge, and descend to Shyang-Mochen or Syangboche a tiny settlement with 3 tea houses.

The trail climbs gently from Shyang Mochen to a pass at 12,370ft and enters another huge east-west valley. There is a trail junction here. The left trail is the direct route to the Nyi La by-passing Ghilling. You have an optional choice of taking right and descend to Ghilling with its extensive fields of barley at 11,810ft. As in all the settlements of Mustang, most houses are constructed out of mud and stones with roofs cast out of twigs, straw, and a mixture of mud and pebbles, usually painted in bright white or ochre colors. Camp overnight.

Soon the trail climbs gently through fields, up the center of the valley, passing below the settlement of Tama Gun and an imposing Chorten. It rejoins the direct trail and then becomes an unrelenting climb across the head of the valley to the Nyi La Pass (12,960ft). This pass is the southern boundary of Lo or Mustang itself. The descent from the Nyi La is nice and gentle. About half an hour from the pass is a trail junction; the right trail is the direct route to Tsarang, the left trail leads to Ghami. Ghami is the small village sheltered by overhanging cliffs and next to a clear stream. During the day you will pass many Chortens along the way. Always keep to the left, as it is bad ‘Karma’ to go the wrong way round.

From Ghami we descend to the suspension bridge and get to one of the ancient and longest Mani (prayer) walls. All these Chortens, Stupas, and Mani walls give you ample account on Guru Padmasambhava, popularly known as Guru Rimpoche, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism. There are indeed abundant legends and your Group Leader will surely relate you in one of your evening storytelling times. However, the magnificent views of the countryside, the gentle contours of the north, in contrast to the rugged mountains in the east and west, are a source of inspiration. 4 hours walking brings us to Tsarang, a large spread-out village inhabited totally by Lobas. Tsarang, 'The Land of Chortens" is a maze of trees, willow fields, and houses separated by stone walls, at the top of the large Charang Chu canyon. The huge five-story monastery fortress is perched on the edge of the Gali Khandaki gorge, on the east end of the village. The Gompa houses an excellent collection of statues and Thankas. 

We trek past Marang, cross the Marang La at 4353m, and walk through Samduling, with its gompa. After a short descent and an easy stream crossing, we climb back up to the plateau of Lo Monthang, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration.” 5 hours of gentle walk into the barren and arid land but with an amazing landscape setting finally, we get our first view of the walled city of Lo.

The sight of the fabled walled city of Lo and the spectacular valley view of Thinkar and Chhosar from 4000m pass of Lo-La is simply incredible. You can as well see the Tibetan border and the Tibetan peaks at a distance. In the 1380s, King Ame Pal, established his reign in Lo, with the walled city of Lo Monthang as its capital. Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 150 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gompas in Nepal. We will have a free afternoon to explore the city inside the wall and to visit the ancient monasteries on some entrance fees. 

Today we will hire a jeep for our side excursion to the beautiful valley of Chhosar. We will visit the ancient cave that has about 44 compartments and gives you the history of prehistoric human settlements. The next attraction is Nyphu Cave Monastery built in the high cliff wall that dates back to the 14th century. We will drive to our Lodge for lunch and once again we will have a free afternoon for self-exploration. However, if you fancy visiting the Nomads you can always contribute for a short jeep ride to the nomad area an enjoy some nomad tea and snacks. Your group leader will assist you in organizing any side-excursions in Lo-Manthang.

Today we will walk different west terrain which offers you the most beautiful view despite a few steep downhill trials. While walking this different terrain the views of the landscape and the mountain in the south is mesmerizing. We visit the world's oldest Tibetan monastery Ghar Gompa built around the 7th century by the incarnated monk Padmasambhava where we will have lunch. We continue a different valley with a magnificent view of red cliffs to Dhakmar. The walk to Dhakmar is thrilling with different trail high above the canyons and eroded hills. Another 1-hour beautiful walk will eventually land us to the village of Ghami. 

We retrace our trail back to the village of Syanboche for lunch and on the way back you have ample opportunity to look back into the missed out views. We climb the pass and had to the village of Samar and stay overnight.

Today once again we retrace our trail climbing down to Chele where we will stop for tea. Further, we descend down to the Chhusang with a great view of Nilgiri and a wide stretch of Kali Gandaki. Chhusang is another pretty old village with an apple orchard, there are too many Nepali and Tibetan songs sung portraying the beauty of Chhusang. We drive on a local bus to Kagbeni and finally exit the restricted area. 

This morning we start early to avoid the tough Mustang wind that usually triggers early. We trace back the same trail back to Jomsom. Being it the last night, fun activities follows with dancing, eating, drinking, and tipping.

We take an early morning flight from Jomsom to Pokhara. We fly right into the deepest gorge in the world, Kali Gandaki with a striking view of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. Overnight stay in the lake city of Pokhara. Your group leader will assist with the side excursion, if any, as per your requirements.

It is time to fly back home keeping all the exhilarating experiences of Nepal in mind. Please make sure that you have collected all the valuable from the security department. Transportation will be provided and you will be accompanied by your Trek Leader. Feel free to rate us on the Trip Advisor.