Trip Overview

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Lapcha Pass delivers one of the most thrilling experiences that mountaineers seek when they think of trekking and climbing in Nepal. Climbing Mera Peak and Island Peak, the two most popular trekking peaks in the Nepal Himalayas is certainly one of the most exceptional trips. Besides climbing, this trip involves the crossing of the most spectacular and challenging Amphu Lapcha pass which is yet another outstanding highlight of the trip that delivers you the genuine sense of being into the wilderness. Himalayan Dynasty has professionally designed Mera Peak and Island Peak expedition itinerary so that it can prepare appropriate grounds for acclimatization to all individuals involved. This 28 Days trekking and climbing trip comprise the conquering two famous trekking peaks over 6000 meters, going over the less attempted technical Amphu Lapcha pass and going over the less trodden remote valleys of Hinku, Honku, and Imja-Tse of the Everest region.

Conquering 6467 meters, Mera peak offers anyone with the great peak climbing ecstasy and a great sense of accomplishment. Despite Mera and Island Peak climbing is a little longer, the views and the experience that it delivers surpasses all negative energy. The top of Mera peak delivers you the glorious panoramic view of 5 world’s highest mountain namely Everest (8848m), Kangchenjunga (8586m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8481m), and Cho-Oyu (8201m). Besides these world’s highest mountains we also see Baruntse (7168m), Nuptse (7861m), Ama-Dablam (6812m), Kangtega (6685m), and many more. 

Amphu Labsta pass (Amphulapcha La) (5780m / 18,963 ft) is certainly a very technical alley that requires a professional team to cope with. However, the thrill of going over this beautiful passage is undoubtedly very electrifying. To go over the pass our local crew have to go through a lot of effort that includes fixing rope to abseil and transfer the entire expedition team member and supplies including climbers, support crew, gears, and foodstuffs. All our climbing guides and assistant guides are professional in dealing with any technicality in the Amphu Labsta pass. 

Island peak (6189 m / 20,305 ft), named by Eric Shipton, the legendary British explorer is yet another fascinating peak but pretty technical. However, it is less on height in comparison to Mera peak but the pleasure of climbing Island peak is second to none. One among the most celebrated 6000m peak that is unquestionably very challenging, but permits you to assess your climbing skills and feel the difference.  The top of Island peak offers an impressive view of the mountains, like Lhotse (8516M), Lhotse Shar (8383m), Choplu, Amadablam (6812m), Kangtenga (6685m), Thamserku (6608m), Cholatse (6335m), Tabuche peak (6367m), etc. 

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Trip Summary

Prior to your arrival in Kathmandu, everything will be set in regards to permits, gear, crew, etc. A royal traditional welcome dinner will be organized in Kathmandu before we take our thrilling flight to the mountain airport of Lukla to begin our enchanting Mera peak and Island peak expedition. After you are introduced to your local crew in Lukla we take a different valley, unlike the regular maddening Everest Base Camp trail. We walk the route via lush woodland and ample traditional Sherpa settlements that eventually lands us to the top of Mera peak. After the successful accomplishment of the 6676m peak, we walk towards the east through the unpopulated and less trodden upper Hongu Valley.  This valley tail that directs you to the Makalu base camp is very untouched and very less explored which gives you the real sense of wilderness. As we walk the amazing Everest and Lhotse dominates the horizon and the entire valley. Gradually we reach the sacred Panch Pokhari and we camp at Seto Pokhari a scared lake over 5000 m with the most stunning view into the thin air. We have the most challenging mission before us, i.e. to cross the demanding and technical Amphu Labtsa pass at 5780m.  Soon we enter into the Imja valley and on our way to Island peak base camp. After the clinical course and giving you enough ground for acclimatization, we head out to scale the most beautiful Island peak. After the successful ascent, we head back to Luka via the Tengboche monastery and Namche. We will eventually get back to the tree line area with much oxygen to breathe and feel normal. While in Namche and Lukla you will have enough time to enjoy, relish and celebrate your accomplishment. 

Highlights

  • Flying in a twin-otter plane to small Lukla airport, the world's most thrilling airport with an inclined airstrip at the elevation of 2840 m. 
  • Walk into the lush forest of Rhododendron and pine to Surke and Paiya.
  • The woodland setting and the view of the valley as you walk towards Panggom is very dramatic.
  • Going over Kari La pass with the view of Numbur (6866m), Khatang Ri (6853m), Koryolung (6681m), Kongde (6187m), and Tengkangpoche (6487m).
  • View of terraced fields, gorgeous forest setting, and getting to the most beautiful village of Panggom. 
  • The majestic view of Kangchenjunga 8,586 m, the 3rd highest mountain in the world. 
  • Summiting Mera peak with the view of 5 world's highest mountain - Everest (8848m), Kangchenjunga (8586m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8481m), and Cho-Oyu (8201m).
  • Walking into a different part of the world like paradise, fenced by snow-capped mountains as you enter Hongu Valley.
  • Going over the technical Ambhu Labsta Pass (Ambhulapcha La) zooming up an abseiling down for Lunch.
  • The exceptional view of Everest and its neighboring mountains from the pass. 
  • Trek to Island Peak Base Camp is a beautiful experience that offers you a handsome opportunity to walk through the outstanding valley of Imja.
  • The marvelous experience of camping and enjoying the gorgeous food prepared by our crew under inadequate available conditions.  
  • Climbing Clinical Course and summiting the famous yet technical Island peak with exquisite scenic beauty. 
  • Walking on the legendary trekking trail and heading back to the treeline with teahouse accommodation at Pangboche is a sigh of relief.
  • Visiting the most active Monastery at Tengboche – where trekkers and climbers from around the world stop by to lit a butter lamp and take blessing from the highest lama (monk).
  • Walk back to Namche and celebrate your accomplishment.
  • Finally, fly out of Lukla – another thrilling experience offering you one of the most beautiful views. 

Itinerary

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Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing:

To make it hassle-free Himalayan Dynasty provides all the climbing equipment that includes Ropes, Climbing Boots, Crampons, Ice Axe, Helmet, Harness, karabiner, Belay Devices/Figure of 8, Ascender/Jumar, etc. Furthermore, a two-member tent with mattresses will be provided. During night time a hot water bag to ward of cold will also be arranged where necessary depending on the availability of water.

Our representative or your Group Leader will be there to receive you at the Kathmandu international airport and transfer you to the hotel. This 25 / 30 minutes drive from the airport to the hotel is certainly very exciting. You may experience cross-culture in a varied way, however, all the lively activity and the chaotic yet adorable traffic eventually leads you to the dynamic town of Thamel. You will discover the real cultural aspects and charming faces that besiege you with the feeling of bliss. Once you are settled your Group leader will organize a meeting that would include Trek Briefing and the distribution of the necessary equipment. 

After the briefing around evening time, the Welcome dinner is organized. Your Leader will take you to the most authentic Nepali restaurant for Royal Traditional Nepali cuisine followed by a cultural dance. So do not miss your cameras.   

  • Accommodation 3 Star Hotel
  • Meals Welcome Dinner
  • Accommodation Tea House
  • Meals Breakfast
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  • Time 5 - 6 Hours
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  • Time 6 - 7 Hours
  • Accommodation Lodge
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  • Time 7 Hours
  • Accommodation 3 Star Hotel
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  • Meals Breakfast
  • Time 25 / 30 Minutes
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Trip inclusion

  • All essential permits.
  • Mera Peak and Island Peak expedition permit.
  • Airport pickups and drops facility on both Domestic and International flights.
  • Three-star twin bed sharing hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu on Bed / Breakfast basis.
  • Welcome Dinner
  • All Government and Local tax.
  • DOMESTIC FLIGHTS TO AND FROM LUKLA.
  • Fundamental trekking gears like a sleeping bag, down jacket fleece liner, etc.
  • All climbing equipment’s including climbing boots.
  • Tea-house accommodation or tented camp as per the trek.
  • MEALS AND DRINKS WHILE CAMPING.
  • Two member tents facility and kitchen crew at Mera peak / Amphu Labtsa Pass and Island peak base camp with hot meals.
  • An accomplished trekking Group Leader and assistant guides.
  • An accomplished climbing guide.
  • All ground staff their allowances and insurance.
  • Oxygen cylinders and an all-inclusive medical kit on all trips.
  • Take away the Himalayan Dynasty duffel bag, T-shirt, and trekking Map.
  • The fee levied on a Nepali visa.
  • ALL FOOD, DRINKS, AND WATER ON TEA-HOUSE TREK DAYS.
  • All personal expenses including laundry, battery charges, shower, etc.
  • International flight fares.
  • A medical examination or emergency rescues.
  • Donations.
  • Staff Tipping.
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu on early arrival.
  • Travel or medical insurance.
  • Optional tours and sightseeing or any activities during free time.

FAQs

Peak climbing in Nepal usually goes over the elevation of 6000m / 20,000 feet and is graded as Alpine PD+, which is physically testing and very demanding. However, peak climbing typically takes a day to the summit from the advanced camp and get back to the designated destination. Any peak in Nepal is strenuous in terms of terrain and technicality but anyone with a positive outlook towards climbing and has the burning determination of achieving the climbing goal can definitely do it.  

Peak Climbing in Nepal is not something impossible, anyone with reasonable physical fitness and positive mindset can achieve the objective. What matters most while going into thin air and doing something, as peak climbing in part of the world no matter if it is the highest in the world is acclimatization and willpower. Himalayan Dynasty provides ample ground for acclimatization. Taking this into account we have designed our itinerary in a such a way that everyone has enough time to acclimate with the low oxygen environment. However, anyone with personal medical problem need to seek necessary approval from your doctors. 

Though our itineraries are very well designed for proper acclimatization, however, with the Himalayan Dynasty everybody has to right to CUSTOMIZE the itinerary as per the requirements, fitness, and time convenient to you.

Usually, the number of days depends on the choice of your destination. However, it may range from 16 to 27 days. Besides, with the Himalayan Dynasty you can also customize the itinerary to shorten or lengthen the trip. 

For any peak climbing in Nepal, you would need a National Park permits, a T.I.M.S card (trekking information management system) and The Climbing permits. The price of the climbing permits varies as per the season. Additional costs are involved when you enter into a different district or restricted zone however, the Himalayan Dynasty organizes all the necessary permits over the package costs prior to your arrival in Kathmandu. 

If you are climbing Mera Peak and Island Peak combination than we require permits for Sagarmatha National park, Makalu-Barun National Park, climbing permit for Island Peak and Mera peak.

The best season for climbing any peaks in Nepal is Autumn September and October 
And Spring - March April and May – Summer which is also monsoon in Nepal and winter is not considered ideal for climbing peaks in Nepal. 

In reality, the prior climbing experience is not required for climbing any peaks in Nepal as climbing peaks are a matter of determination and acclimatization. However, previous climbing experience undeniably adds up to your level of fitness, success, and the knowledge of adversity in the mountains. 

Nevertheless, a good level of physical fitness is required as climbing peaks in Nepal is not a stroll in a park, it is a challenging venture that involves a lot of physical and mental challenges. Some homework is mandatory in regard to shape yourself prior to your expeditions. But in case of any personal ailments, we recommend you seek expert advice before you sign up for any peak climbing trips in Nepal. Besides, our professional Climbing guide conducts a practical climbing course before the summit that contributes you with enough knowledge of climbing techniques.

We highly recommend you to hill-walk hike or walk the stairs with the amount of weight in your daypack you are planning to carry on your climbing trips in Nepal. By doing this you will get conditioned to your pack and your potential. Besides, swimming, cycling, running, etc. will surely add up to your physical endurance.

Before we get to the base of any of the peak we are climbing, we usually walk not more than 6/7 hours excluding lunch. However, the day we summit and if any of the high elevation passes is included in our trip then it certainly takes longer around 9 to 12 hours. On the other hand, the time duration highly depends on the pace of the group. Again, your group leader basically retains the togetherness of the group and always recommends everyone to maintain a slow pace so that you can acclimate well and so that you can enjoy the day with much fun. Since we always try to make our days exciting than exhausting the time may not be as accurate as we declare.

It is always very tricky to predict the weather in the mountain and anyone flying high to these high altitude airports must be aware of the fact that the delays and cancellation are common episodes. Besides, our airport having one single airstrip for both international and domestic flights the probabilities of delays is high. 

In a similar way, anyone flying in and out of Lukla OR Jomsom must be willing to take these circumstances with patience. However, it is not a daily story. Moreover, it is always very wise to have a contingency day in Kathmandu to cushion any cancellation situation. However, airport like LUKLA is listed as a “Most Dangerous Airport” in the world but the pleasure of flying to Lukla or Jomsom is an experience of a lifetime, which is not to be missed. It is not dangerous; it is actually very thrilling that excites you more than any of the wildest sport

It is indeed really complex to predict the weather in the mountains where the weather changes in a snap of your finger. The weather in Nepal is basically motivated by the Bay of Bengal in India. Any differences at the Bay of Bengal may adversely affect the weather in our country. Significantly, the weather and temperature also vary depending on the time of the year you are climbing peaks in our country – we have four-season Spring, Autumn, Summer (monsoon), and Winter. Winter is not ideal for climbing, though the weather may be fabulous, but the temperature might get down to -30. Spring and autumn are best for climbing in terms of weather and the temperature at the highest elevation might get down from zero to – 15 (minus). 

Himalayan Dynasty provides you a very warm sleeping bag with fleece or silk liner and wind-stopper duvet jackets with an attach hood. We also provide you with a FREE (complimentary) company’s duffle bag, T-shirt, trekking map, and Buff (multiple headwears). Besides this we have listed out the necessary things you are to pack for any mountain trip in Nepal, be it hiking, trekking, or climbing – for details CLICK HERE.

To make it hassle-free Himalayan Dynasty provides all the climbing equipment that includes Ropes, Climbing Boots, Crampons, Ice Axe, Helmet, Harness, karabiner, Belay Devices/Figure of 8, Ascender/Jumar, etc. Furthermore, a two-member tent with mattresses will be provided. During night time A hot water bag to ward of cold will also be arranged where necessary depending on the availability of water.

Yes, buying equipment in Nepal highly depends on your arrival plan. If you arrive early with extra days prior to your departure into the mountains then you will have ample time to shop for equipment in Kathmandu. You can either buy or rent gears in Kathmandu or Pokhara. Actually, it is believed that trekking or climbing equipment is cheaper in Nepal as compared to international markets. There are knock-off brand known as ‘genuinely fake’, which is not genuine in reality, but are of great quality. If you are climbing any peak in the Everest region, you can buy great equipment at Namche Bazaar as well. 

Himalayan Dynasty gives you the best of our local crew who besides being specialized in their job are very well acquainted with the local environment and information. We provide you with GROUP LEADERS who are professional both in knowledge, history, emergency, and first aid + medication. We have ASSISTANT GUIDES or Sherpas (title not tribe) who have a variation of responsibilities besides showing you the trail.  Next are our PORTERS who are related to HULK due to the nature of their work. Some even relate them to ANTS as in certain times of the year they carry loads more than their body weight for the sake of earning – which is indeed very true. COOK & KITCHEN ASSISTANT – they are one of the very important departments on your climbing trips as without their efforts on preparing delicious food and maintaining hygiene it’s impossible to complete our mission. They prepare glorious food even from the limited resources in less than ideal conditions.

ASSISTANT CLIMBING GUIDE – who assists you much like assistant guides but they are the ones behind the success of your climbing achievement. They will always be there to assist you and the climbing guide during your climbing operations and while going over the technical pass. CLIMBING GUIDE - We will provide you a licensed, English-speaking, and professional climbing guide who are very well with the mountains. He is the responsible person who will assist you in all your climbing ventures.

Since all our climbing trips are the combination of both Teahouse and Camping accommodation, we provide you with the best meal variation and cozy accommodation. While at Teahouse we provide you with a twin bed sharing cozy room with common toilets – attach room in places available and single supplement on demand and over obtainability. The variation of food is ample at all teahouses – most of them have the variation better than most restaurants in Kathmandu. They vary from continental, Chinese, Tibetan, local, etc. While in Camping, we provide a highly insulated two-member tent with air mattresses. Our cooks prepare the food; the food items vary every day depending on the resources. They are professionals in preparing food even under less than ideal conditions.

It is always very wise to have an all-inclusive travel insurance policy covering all the aspects of your adventure that includes trip delays, cancellation, loss of property, sickness, or air evacuation. Though your leaders are highly trained to cope with any emergency situation while climbing any of the peaks in Nepal yet sometimes even after the best of our precautions things happen. From everyday trekking injuries like sprained ankles to life-threatening conditions such as HAPE (high-altitude pulmonary edema) or HACE (high-altitude cerebral edema) and natural disasters like avalanches and rock-falls, it’s important that you have the right travel insurance for the Island peak climbing. 

Acute mountain sickness is something more of a reaction that materializes in our body under a lower rate of oxygen level. It’s a mountain ailment which is fatal. It’s hard to predict who of what age and physical fitness can actually get of AMS. This AMS will in course of time develops to HACE or HAPE or sometimes both which is life-threatening. However, the Himalayan Dynasty delivers professionals who are well equipped with medication and oxygen cylinders to deal with AMS. Besides, there are ample preventive strategies to deal with any mountain sickness. In case of altitude sickness, your leader will examine the severity and give you necessary reference that includes descent, hiring a horse, or prompt air evacuation. Food poisoning, severe diarrhea, stomach problems are other very common mountain ailments that can be nightmarish than the AMS.

All our group leaders are very well trained to deal with any case of emergency in the mountains. Furthermore, they are always in persistent contact with the company through any available communication means, be it a satellite phone. In cases of life-threatening, we take prompt action as required. Air evacuation will always be standby and will be organized in cases of absolute necessity. 

Air evacuation will be instantly organized if it's life-threatening, however, the costs for emergency evacuation must be paid in cash in Nepal prior to the agreement of payment by your insurance company on your behalf

All Teahouses prepare delicious food and have a variation of Indian, Chinese, Continental, Local, etc. Teahouses have their own cooks who are maters in preparing food items. However, our staff surveys that all our food is prepared with extra caution and hygiene. While camping all our foods are arranged by our Cook and the kitchen crew. They are leaders in preparing glorious and delicious food from the available resources in less than ideal conditions. It is very well said that once you are conditioned to the tastes of camping food you would not fancy teahouse food.  So far there has been no complaint whatsoever regarding the quality of food with the Himalayan Dynasty. 

With the progression of technology, the cell phone network is available in most of the remote regions of Nepal but again not everywhere. Wi-Fi and 4G data are accessible depending on where you are and the availability of the network coverage. 

Himalayan Dynasty provides satellite phone to deal with any emergency in the wilderness where there is a void of any communication facility. 

All teahouses in all trekking destination of Nepal provide hot shower over a small cost. Shower can be an electric shower, gas shower, or solar shower. In case of not having any of the mentioned showers the teahouses always provide you with a Bucket shower. However, your leader will advise of not having a shower once you get to a certain elevation concerning health. While camping before the summit of any peak climbing there won't be any shower but a washing bowl will be provided for basic washing. 

As for the WiFi - you need to be very well prepared to get going without the internet in some parts of our remote country. Most teahouses have Wi-Fi facilities but not always reliable. Once you get to a certain elevation there is probably no chance of WiFi.

All teahouses provide charging facility over a COST. In some places, there may not be any chances of charging facility. It is always wise to carry some extra batteries or the fully charged power bank batteries to charge your devices - besides, your batteries run out pretty quick in the cold

Your group leader always assigns his assistant guides as a lead guide, as a helper, etc as for himself he walks at the back with slow walking people. He will exert absolutely no pressure on people to walk fast to catch up with the group. Besides the leading Sherpa always maintains a convenient pace for all so that we maintain the togetherness of the group and don’t split. You have every right to enjoy your vacation so maintain your own pace and don’t be too much bothered to catch up with the group. 

With Local Company, most significantly it is hassle-free. Everything arranged prior to your arrival in Nepal with no additional costs. Your local crews possess a very good knowledge of the mountains and the region you are going and will always come in very handy during the times of crisis. Furthermore, they are the best storyteller and can share beautiful information, legends, and untold stories more than anybody else can. Local companies will be in contact 24/7 and they are always prepared with the prompt solution to any emergency situations that may arise during the course of your trip. In the isolated and remote areas in the mountains into the wilderness, local companies can always come up with prompt actions with reliability.